Difference between revisions of "Switch Turns On But Not Off"

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'''Why does my Wall Switch Module turn on but not off?'''
 
'''Why does my Wall Switch Module turn on but not off?'''
  
The wall switch module is wired in series with the light bulb, meaning that the electrical signals have to pass through the filament of the bulb in order to complete the circuit. The reason you can get the wall switch module to turn on but not off is because the X10 signal has to pass through the lamp, and a hot lamp has a higher resistance than a cold lamp, therefore it takes a slightly stronger signal to turn a wall switch off than it takes to turn it on. If however you have a powerful enough signal, you would not notice the difference. Also, certain types of bulbs block the X10 signal.
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'''Why does my Lamp Module turn on but not off?'''
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'''Why does my Appliance Module turn on but not off?'''
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==Answer==
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Standard wall switch modules are wired in series with the light bulb, meaning that the electrical signals have to pass through the filament of the bulb in order to complete the circuit. The reason you can get the wall switch module to turn on but not off is because the X10 signal has to pass through the lamp, and a hot lamp has a higher resistance than a cold lamp, therefore it takes a slightly stronger signal to turn a wall switch off than it takes to turn it on. If, however, you have a powerful enough signal, you would not notice the difference. Also, certain types of bulbs block the X10 signal.
  
 
The following types of bulbs should NOT be used with a WS467 or WS12A Wall Switch Module:
 
The following types of bulbs should NOT be used with a WS467 or WS12A Wall Switch Module:
*Florescent bulbs
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*LED Lighting
*Halogen Bulbs
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*Fluorescent bulbs
 
*Sodium Vapor Bulbs
 
*Sodium Vapor Bulbs
 
*Any kind of energy saver bulb (i.e. Sylvania Capsellite, GE Miser, etc.)
 
*Any kind of energy saver bulb (i.e. Sylvania Capsellite, GE Miser, etc.)
 
*Any kind of low voltage bulb
 
*Any kind of low voltage bulb
  
To control fluorescent fixtures, we recommend the use of X10
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[http://www.activehomepro.com/accessories/acc_wallswitch_ws13a.html Non-dimming Decorator Wall Switch (WS13A)] or
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For those items, we recommend the use of X10 Non-dimming Decorator Wall Switch [http://www.x10.com/ws13a.html ('''WS13A''')] or X10 PRO Non-dimming Wall Switch
[http://www.activehomepro.com/accessories/pro/xps3_iw_wa1_s.html X10 Pro Non-dimming Wall Switch (XPS3)].
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[http://www.x10.com/xps3.html ('''XPS3''')].
Note that these versions require a neutral connection and are therefore recommended for installation only by a qualified electrician.
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'''NOTE''': these versions require a neutral connection and are therefore recommended for installation only by a qualified electrician.
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'''Why does my Non-dimming Wall Switch Module turn on but not off?'''
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Although the XPS3 and the WS13A can safely be used to control any type of load, if the load produces too much powerline noise, it can prevent the wall switch from hearing the command to turn off.  This problem is commonly seen when controlling certain brands of Compact Fluorescent Lights (CFLs).
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The easiest solution is to change the load so it does not produce as much powerline noise (switching brand of CFL for example).  If that is not possible, or does not solve the problem, you will need to install a noise filter (such as the X10 PRO [http://www.x10.com/pro/automation/xpnr.htm '''XPNR'''] ) between the wall switch and the load. If that still does not do it, other [[Noise Filters and Automatic Gain Control|'''line noise problems''']] are at fault.
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===Related Articles===
 
===Related Articles===
  
[[Modules Work in Some Locations but not Others]]
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[[Identifying and Troubleshooting Powerline Noise and Control Problems]]
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[[Switch Turns Off But Not On]]
  
Key Topics: module, outlet, wiring, phase, electrical, noise, line, interference, circuit
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[[Modules Work in Some Locations but not Others]]
  
Relates to: LM465, LM15A, LM14A, AM15A, AM486, AM466, WS467, WS4777, WS12A, WS13A
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[[Fluorescent Lights]]
  
[[Fluorescent Lights]] <BR>
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[[Phase Coupling]]  
[[Phase Coupling]]
 
  
Key Topics: neutral, ground, incandescent, wire, load, ballast
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[[Noise Filters and Automatic Gain Control]]
  
Relates to: WS467, WS4777, WS12A, WS13A
 
  
 
[[Category:troubleshooting]]
 
[[Category:troubleshooting]]

Latest revision as of 19:08, 19 December 2014

Questions

Why does my Wall Switch Module turn on but not off?

Why does my Lamp Module turn on but not off?

Why does my Appliance Module turn on but not off?

Answer

Standard wall switch modules are wired in series with the light bulb, meaning that the electrical signals have to pass through the filament of the bulb in order to complete the circuit. The reason you can get the wall switch module to turn on but not off is because the X10 signal has to pass through the lamp, and a hot lamp has a higher resistance than a cold lamp, therefore it takes a slightly stronger signal to turn a wall switch off than it takes to turn it on. If, however, you have a powerful enough signal, you would not notice the difference. Also, certain types of bulbs block the X10 signal.

The following types of bulbs should NOT be used with a WS467 or WS12A Wall Switch Module:

  • LED Lighting
  • Fluorescent bulbs
  • Sodium Vapor Bulbs
  • Any kind of energy saver bulb (i.e. Sylvania Capsellite, GE Miser, etc.)
  • Any kind of low voltage bulb


For those items, we recommend the use of X10 Non-dimming Decorator Wall Switch (WS13A) or X10 PRO Non-dimming Wall Switch (XPS3).


NOTE: these versions require a neutral connection and are therefore recommended for installation only by a qualified electrician.


Why does my Non-dimming Wall Switch Module turn on but not off?

Although the XPS3 and the WS13A can safely be used to control any type of load, if the load produces too much powerline noise, it can prevent the wall switch from hearing the command to turn off. This problem is commonly seen when controlling certain brands of Compact Fluorescent Lights (CFLs).

The easiest solution is to change the load so it does not produce as much powerline noise (switching brand of CFL for example). If that is not possible, or does not solve the problem, you will need to install a noise filter (such as the X10 PRO XPNR ) between the wall switch and the load. If that still does not do it, other line noise problems are at fault.


Related Articles

Identifying and Troubleshooting Powerline Noise and Control Problems

Switch Turns Off But Not On

Modules Work in Some Locations but not Others

Fluorescent Lights

Phase Coupling

Noise Filters and Automatic Gain Control