Difference between revisions of "Alternate Camera Switching Configuration"
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Since the camera commands are sent via Radio Frequency first (from a remote, motion sensor, etc.), you can isolate each camera on its own surge protector. Each one will also need its own transceiver module (TM751 or RR501), because you will need as many transceivers as you have cameras for this application. Plug the camera's power supply and its transceiver module--configured to the same housecode--into its surge protector. When you install the cameras this way, you have full control of them. This configuration isolates each camera from any electrical line noise on your house wiring and still allows it to respond to signals from your remote. | Since the camera commands are sent via Radio Frequency first (from a remote, motion sensor, etc.), you can isolate each camera on its own surge protector. Each one will also need its own transceiver module (TM751 or RR501), because you will need as many transceivers as you have cameras for this application. Plug the camera's power supply and its transceiver module--configured to the same housecode--into its surge protector. When you install the cameras this way, you have full control of them. This configuration isolates each camera from any electrical line noise on your house wiring and still allows it to respond to signals from your remote. | ||
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| + | Note that you do not need to put all your cameras in this alternate configuration. If you have some cameras that switch OK, but just one camera that you cannot get to switch in the location you need to plug it in, you just need one extra transceiver and surge protector for the problem camera. Leave the other cameras set up normally, plugged directly into wall outlets. | ||
If you have the FloodCam, you will need to plug an RR501 in on each circuit breaker with a FloodCam on it. Do not use multiple TM751s with the FloodCam. | If you have the FloodCam, you will need to plug an RR501 in on each circuit breaker with a FloodCam on it. Do not use multiple TM751s with the FloodCam. | ||
Revision as of 19:04, 24 August 2011
Questions
I keep having problems switching cameras; what can I do?
How can I figure out why my wireless cameras won't switch?
Answer
If you have consistent problems switching between certain cameras, you can try having the cameras switch using radio frequency (RF) commands only, instead of X10 signals being sent over your house wiring. Follow the steps below to test this.
First, perform the advanced camera switching test. This test is designed to help confirm that your X10 Camera's addressable power supplies are working properly.
What you need to perform this test:
- A transceiver module (model TM751 or RR501)
- A remote control set to the same house code as your cameras
- Your wireless cameras
- A power strip with room to plug in several camera power supplies at the same time
Performing the Test
Most surge protectors have multiple outlets; however, because of the size of the power supplies of each camera, they cover adjacent outlets if they are too close together. If your power strip is like this, you may only be able to plug in 2 or 3 power supplies at a time. In order to complete this test, the transceiver needs to be plugged in with all of the cameras you want to control.
With all camera power supplies and the transceiver plugged into the same surge protector, test that the cameras switch correctly using your remote. If they do, then there is an issue with X10 communication over the house wiring.
If you cannot get all cameras plugged in at once, test each camera individually. Leave all other cameras unplugged. You should be able to get the camera picture on the TV to go away by switching to a camera that is not plugged in.
New Camera Set-up
Since the camera commands are sent via Radio Frequency first (from a remote, motion sensor, etc.), you can isolate each camera on its own surge protector. Each one will also need its own transceiver module (TM751 or RR501), because you will need as many transceivers as you have cameras for this application. Plug the camera's power supply and its transceiver module--configured to the same housecode--into its surge protector. When you install the cameras this way, you have full control of them. This configuration isolates each camera from any electrical line noise on your house wiring and still allows it to respond to signals from your remote.
Note that you do not need to put all your cameras in this alternate configuration. If you have some cameras that switch OK, but just one camera that you cannot get to switch in the location you need to plug it in, you just need one extra transceiver and surge protector for the problem camera. Leave the other cameras set up normally, plugged directly into wall outlets.
If you have the FloodCam, you will need to plug an RR501 in on each circuit breaker with a FloodCam on it. Do not use multiple TM751s with the FloodCam.
If you are using your cameras with ActiveHome Pro and the iWitness plug-in software, identify each camera as a Vanguard, since ActiveHome Pro communicates with other cameras over your house wiring. The interface can send commands to Vanguards via radio frequency, like a remote.
Related Articles
Troubleshooting Camera Switching
- Key Topics: camera, switch, multi, multiple, on, off, group
- Relates to: XX11A, XX12A, XX16A, XX17A, XC10A, XC18A, XC19A